Category Archives: Duffey Lake

Going out in style

I can’t deny that the season’s drawing to an end. But I’m not ready for the door to close on winter, for this world to be lost to me until November rolls around and the snow comes again. So for now, I’ll keep chasing the receding snowline as hard as I can and as far as I need to.

Last weekend, the freezing level danced way up the mountains while the weather forecast offered a vague mix of sun, cloud and snow flurries. We knew we’d have to go high, but had no idea whether or not we’d have visibility when we got there. We set our sights on the Duffey and arrived at the Joffre Lakes parking lot to lightly falling snow and a patchwork covering of cloud. Neither of us knew the area and we had no GPS track, so we’d resigned ourselves to the fact that if we reached the cloud ceiling on the climb up we might just be getting a very scenic workout.

Lower Joffre lake

The first lake crossing was sketchy as hell. After poking our poles into a foot of slushy water on top of the ice, we debated pretty hard as to whether we should attempt it. But the ice below the surface melt seemed very solid, and the bridge looked mostly secure. After making the call to give it a go we spread out and moved fast, and both breathed a sigh of relief when we made it to solid ground on the other side.

In the trees the snowpack was pretty thin, and a creek that would have made a great uptrack was already half unfrozen with huge holes looming between the pillows. It was early enough that the snow beneath our skis was still rock hard, but we could feel the warmth in the sun when we emerged on the boulder fields. When we reached the upper lakes  the views suddenly blew wide open and we understood for the first time why this area has such a reputation. We were surrounded by peaks of such immensity they took my breath away: Joffre, Matier, Slalok, Tszil, and Taylor. Landscapes I’d dreamed about were right there in front of me, the crazed chaos of the shattered blue icefall spilling down from the Anniversary Glacier toward the lake.

Upper Joffre Lake panorama

We had a loose plan to head for the Taylor-Tzil col, but once we’d crossed the lake and climbed into the alpine it became apparent that the south side of the valley had been sun affected and we’d be better off staying north. We decided to climb a very steep shoulder between Matier and Slalock, following a skin track set by an earlier group, with the goal of skiing back down our ascent route.

The climb started reasonably but as the shoulder steepened the skin track followed and we found ourselves just barely hanging on, setting our skis with care on each step to avoid slipping backwards and working our way through some of the highest angle kick turns I’ve ever attempted. The final haul was over a sharp convex roll that gave me a few nervous moments, as I felt I couldn’t completely trust that my skins would keep gripping on the wind-scoured snow and it would have been a long fall to a rock outcrop directly below.

Then we broke over the roll, and suddenly, before we’d even said a word to each other, we both knew that the plan had changed. We’d reached the Stonecrop Glacier, a huge sweep of perfect snow that led from a ridge just below Slalok peak all the way back to the valley floor. We were maybe two-thirds of the way up and breathing hard from the lung-searing climb, but once we’d seen the glacier we knew there was no way we were going anywhere else.

Stonecrop Glacier

We took a break for some food and then followed a much more reasonable skin track to the ridge. We passed one huge open crevasse, a gaping chasm of glassy blue leading to unimaginable darkness below. Over on the far side of the valley the clouds briefly rolled back to reveal the shark’s fin peak of Cayoosh, and as I caught my breath on the ridge and looked back toward it I felt like the winters had come full circle.

Cayoosh range

We transitioned quickly as clouds were closing in and flattening the light. The first few turns from the wind-scoured ridge were a mix of ice and snow pockets, and then we dropped into some of the best spring snow I’ve ever skied. It wasn’t corn; it was dense, surfy, boot-high powder that billowed up around us on every turn. We rode it all the way down to the toe of the glacier, where we dodged through a rock outcrop and back to the valley floor. Here we found the corn, and raced on silky snow all the way down to treeline and the lake.

Stonecrop skiing

The ski out through the trees was nowhere near as bad as I thought it might be on the way up. I think I’ve done enough of these crazy bushwhacks now to have developed techniques to deal with them. The low snowpack made for a few challenging moments as we skated over snow-covered logs and bounced off slushy boulder pillows, and at one point I ended up upside down after mistiming a jump from a log, but overall it felt way easier than the descent from Metal Dome.

Back at the parking lot S and I high-fived, celebrating one of the best days of the season. (Definitely the best day that didn’t include a helicopter ride.) We climbed hard, got ourselves into a beautiful area, and found incredible snow on the way down. If that’s the way the season ends, we sure went out in style.

Cayoosh backdrop, Stonecrop Glacier

I don’t want to admit that this might be it, even though I know that with the incredibly low snowpack and recent warm temperatures we might be done. For all the lack of snow, I somehow managed to have the best winter of my life. Part of it was amazing timing in the early part of the season, when every day off seemed to line up with the rare storms. Part of it was the crazy luck that led to the Metal Dome day. But the biggest part of it was meeting C and S. It’s not only that between the three of us we were able to get into the backcountry most weekends, it’s that we also formed a team where I was learning and pushing myself in one way or another every single trip.

Things are changing. I have a new job, and my focus is going to be elsewhere for the next little while. It’s not a bad time for things to be drawing to a close. But it’s never been harder to imagine the door shutting on the winter world, and I’m going to do whatever I can to hold onto it through the warmer months to come.

Matier

Transcending the comfort zone

There hasn’t been much going on recently. Some fun days at Whistler, but nothing out of the ordinary: ripping groomers, bouncing over chalky crud off-piste, searching out the last lingering powder stashes that were maybe good for a turn or two.

And then there was Saturday.

Cayoosh Range

I signed up for a tour organized by a backcountry skiing Meetup group. I’ve been keeping an eye on this group all season, but between my schedule and avalanche conditions circumstances hadn’t lined up for me to join them. As a relative newcomer to the backcountry, I wanted to make sure that my first outing with new people was an objective that wasn’t outlandish on a day when ratings weren’t too touchy.

Saturday was perfect. A trip to Mt Rohr in the Duffey Lake area, on a day with a perfect weather forecast when conditions were about as stable as they get. Before the trip I was stoked but also nervous. With a new group I had no idea what to expect, and my only impressions of our objective were based on John Baldwin’s brief assessment and some Google Earth views. My main concern was that I wouldn’t be fit enough or good enough to keep up.

We met up in darkness in Vancouver, and were well on our way when a beautiful spring dawn broke over the Sea to Sky. North of Pemberton low fog hung in the river valley, shattering the sun into a million bright fragments that dazzled the eyes and made the landscape around us look smoky and surreal, like blurred and shining echoes of something that happened long ago. Mountains reared high into the sky on either side of the Duffey Lake Road; from the car their peaks seemed untouchable, unreachable.

Early morning on the Duffey

After some discussion during the drive we agreed that given the very stable conditions, it made more sense to shoot for Cayoosh Mountain and the Armchair Glacier as our objective rather than the relatively tame slopes of Rohr Ridge. I wasn’t nearly as familiar with this route, and for that I’m glad. If anyone had shown me a detailed photo of it before the trip, I would probably have bailed on the grounds that it was beyond my current capabilities. Fortunately no-one did, and I would have been wrong.

We set out on a logging road, but very rapidly turned off it for an icy, awkward skin through steep trees. Michael, the trip leader, was a machine; aside from Joseph, the Peregrine Expeditions guide, I’ve never seen anyone move so fast uphill on skis or wayfind a new route so quickly and accurately. We broke out of the trees quite quickly, gained another couple of kilometres and increasingly spectacular views on the logging road, and then the fun began.

Logging road

What followed was some of the more technical terrain that I’ve ascended on skis. Which isn’t to say that it was particularly tough in the bigger scheme of things, but it really opened my eyes as to what it takes to reach a peak that’s off the beaten track in winter. There’s a huge difference between bushwhacking an icy skintrack through dense, steep forest and following the more open glades of a summer hiking trail.

We crested one ridge, dropped down to a small lake, and then re-entered the trees for another haul uphill. At this point I wasn’t totally clear whether our objective was the broad, rolling landscape at the end of the valley to our left, or the much steeper slopes and black peaks directly above. When the trail eventually emerged from the trees, it turned out to be the latter. We were high above a series of cliff bands and avalanche chutes that I’d scoped from down by the lake. The skin track itself was well-angled and starting to soften in the sun, but after a couple of slips lower down on the shaded ice I set my kick turns very carefully. By this point, I was very aware that I’d left my personal comfort zone a long way behind.

Looking back toward Rohr

The skin track is a phenomenal place for thinking, once you get beyond the realities of the kick and step and glide and the endless dripping of sweat generated by exertion and the spring sun. Looking down at a no-fall zone directly below me, I asked myself why it wasn’t enough to go out and carve beautiful powder turns on the low angle slopes of Paul Ridge. There was so much more consequence out here. I didn’t have an answer right then, although I’d find it before the end of the day. Instead I just kept going, conscious with every step that the blisters on my heels were feeling more and more like ground beef and that as far as skiing went, I was in completely new territory.

A little while later we broke onto the glacier, and everything inside me went still. Because this was the dream that took me into the backcountry. Seeing things like this. Having the opportunity to ski things like this. A landscape of white reaching far above me to where jagged shark’s fins of black rock flanked the upper ridges. Behind the black-and-white peak of Cayoosh the sky was an astonishing, jaw-dropping blue. It felt like if I could only walk that far, I’d be able to reach up and touch the roof of the world itself.

Cayoosh Glacier

Backcountry is such a limitless term. There are the rolling meadows of places like Red Heather, where you can play in the powder miles from lift lines and every run leaves you yelling for the sheer joy of the snow. And then there are places like this, so huge and open and wild that simply to be there makes the world feel bigger and more extraordinary than you ever imagined. Wild magic.

Beautiful though our surroundings were, it was also a long slog up the face of the glacier. The sun beat down, unbelievably fierce for March. Every step ground a little more flesh off my heels. To my surprise, though, my legs didn’t feel done. I had no idea how I was getting from the glacier back down into the trees, because I hadn’t seen a route that looked particularly accessible on the way up. But I knew that from here, I could reach the top: and from there, somehow things would work themselves out.

Joffre, Matier, and Chief Pascall

When we finally made the ridge at the top of the glacier, a little ways below the true summit, the views – which had been growing more staggering with every upwards step – exploded. I’ve stood in some beautiful places in my life. I’ve watched dawn break over Baker from Heliotrope Ridge, the sky filled with stars that cast silver light over the glaciers. I’ve looked out at Black Tusk during a temperature inversion, mountain peaks floating like islands on a sea of clouds. I’ve watched the sinking sun stain Shuksan red and gold before fading to alpenglow. I had never, ever, seen anything that compared to this.

Peaks upon peaks upon peaks. Amazing, stunning expanses of snow-covered rocks and glaciers in every direction. Mountains marching farther and farther toward the horizon, filling every space in the sky. Joffre, Matier and Slalock dominating the far side of the valley. The Duffey Lake road, impossibly far below. Rohr directly across from us, looking so small in comparison. And the whole wide expanse of the glacier hidden just over the ridge, ready and waiting. Big wide slopes, tight rolls, perfect spring snow.

Cayoosh Range

We took our time over the transition simply because it was so hard to leave that ridge and the views it had brought us to. I was still trying to wrap my mind around it: that I’d climbed to this point, completely under my own power, from the valley floor, on skis. And now, this. A reward beyond words, even before we’d started skiing down. Simply to be in that place was enough. It was a moment I wanted to hold onto for the rest of my life.

Then came the turns. On snow like this it was impossible not to be a hero. There were a bunch of tracks to skier’s right of the glacier from earlier hikers; we hung left and carved our way down on untracked, perfect spring snow. Turn after turn after turn. 1.2km of unbelievable snow. A whole slew of moments I’ll remember forever.

Tracks on the glacier, Mt Cayoosh

Right at the end the snow started to turn slushy and heavy, and we paused to figure out the best way out of the alpine. Some tricky scoping led us over a ridge to a narrow chute full of wet avalanche debris, where all three of us sideslipped our way down slowly and carefully. The debris was sticky and heavy, and I think we were all conscious of the need to move through the chute before anything else came down in the heat of the afternoon sun. It wasn’t easy going, and I took a couple of somersaults (including one directly onto my head) before we made our way out onto an open meadow of slushy, untracked snow that eventually led us back into the forest.

Once we were in the trees, a route much like last year’s descent from the Coleman Glacier eventually took us back to a logging road. This one was lower than the one we’d used to ski up, and was mostly flat with stretches of gentle uphill. As we poled and skated along, my poor macerated heels – which I’d successfully shoved to the back of my mind for most of the day – started to sing in anguish. The final walk across the road after I’d taken my skis off was excruciating, and when I pulled the boots off and ripped the layers of skin away from my heels the raw flesh underneath howled so angrily that it felt like time stopped.

Heel

It didn’t matter. The only thing that mattered was that I’d pushed myself far out of my comfort zone, on a route that I might well not have attempted if I’d really understood what I was getting into, and I succeeded. The reward was not only some of the best moments I’ve ever had on skis, but a raging high that hasn’t subsided yet. I can’t imagine any drug in the world offering anything close to this feeling. I climbed a mountain that most people access by helicopter. I saw the most amazing views I’ve ever seen. I skied some of the best turns of my life. I learned so much.

Heading down the glacier

It’s hard to explain why this tour felt so different, because it’s not the only big objective I’ve taken on. However it was the first big objective where a guide wasn’t involved, which made it a very different experience from a decision-making perspective, and it was my first time skiing in the backcountry with people I’d only just met. There was a sense of independence and weight to our choices that felt new to me. I have a ton of respect for the group leader for the responsibility that he’s taken on with organizing these events. When he said he’d be happy for me to go out with the group again, it really felt like I’d achieved something significant. I’m not as technically skilled or as strong or experienced as these guys, so if they’re willing to have me on board – well, hopefully that means I did alright.

I want to keep on remembering this day, the things I learned and everything I saw and did, and more than anything the way I felt at the end. In spite of a strong risk-taking streak that people who know me are very familiar with, I’ve tended to be very cautious with my choices when it comes to the backcountry because I’m aware that I’m just at the start of a lifetime learning curve. But it’s only by pushing yourself out of your comfort zone that you have the opportunity to grow. And on this trip, I feel like I grew more than I ever expected.

On the ridge